Rafting the Tone River

Roppongi is famous for it's night life which was all-apparent in the wee hours of the morning as I stepped out of our apartment in Tokyo at about 5:45am only to be confronted with a group of all night partiers reeking of alcohol and staggering around. Weaving my way through the mayhem I almost had to step over a guy passed out on the street! Ladies in evening dresses and men in business suits all a bit bedraggled... and then there was me in my rafting outfit! I was on my way to the Tone river.

In any case, I was looking forward to getting out of the city and quickly commenced my shuttle to the small town of Minakami. First the Hibiya subway line to Ginza and then a transfer onto the Maranouchi line which took me to Tokyo station. Once there I was waiting in the que to buy my ticket for the 6:32 Joetsu "shinkansen" or bullet train, only to be skunked by a 10 year old kid who let 20 of his classmates cut in front of me. I finally got my ticket and realized I had 4 minutes to find my train! I ran! NO-I SPRINTED! Only to see the doors close ten feet in front of me and the bullet train speed away. At this point I had been awake for an hour and was already exhausted. Lucky there was another train a half an hour later...

Finally on board the 7:08 Joetsu bullet and traveling at 200+ miles per hour I watched as high-rise buildings, endless concrete, and billboards gave way to green hillsides and rice patties. It felt good to leave behind the city and I have to admit- I was mesmerized by the fast approaching mountains in the distance. Arriving at Jomo-kogen station I eventually found the right bus to Minakami. Then at Minakami station I was greeted by a driver in a farmer john wetsuit named Hitoshi... who took me to Canyons Outfitters. I was getting closer to put-in and I knew the Tone river was close!

I was traveling incognito. This would be the second time in the last 15 years where I would be a paying customer rather than a paid guide on a rafting trip (the first was the Upper Navua river in Fiji circa. 2003). I was given a wetsuit, booties, life jacket etc. and was once again loaded into a van and driven to put-in. I arrived as the safety talk was being given- all in Japanese. I assured the one English speaking guide named Rowan I did not need a safety talk in my native language - I had been rafting before. Eventually, rather than argue, I fessed up and admitted I was also a guide. Rowan was a bit surprised (I thought my rafting outfit would have given me away) and promised to put me in the front of the raft as long as I did not try to guide when he wasn't looking. Finally, two subway rides, a bullet train, a bus, two van rides and three hours later... I got in the raft. I have mentioned it before and I have to say it again- the hardest part about rafting is getting there and getting back- the easy part is floating downstream!

I was relieved to be on the water as we began our journey down the river. I would not say it was a magical trip, but I loved it just the same. Paddling down a river is where I feel most at home and comfortable and this was no exception. A day away from Tokyo was a much-needed respite from the city 'sensory overload'. I blissfully paddled along in the technical class II and III rapids and enjoyed surfing a little ledge hole towards the end of the trip. It ended way to fast! I wanted another 12km and some bigger drops! Alas, take-out came all to quickly and we were shuttled back to Canyons where a lovely BBQ lunch and a cold beer were waiting for me.

A couple of the guides had worked in Coloma, California and for those of you who are not guides- Coloma is like a mecca for whitewater enthusiasts! Although I did not recognize them it evoked a 'warm fuzzy' knowing they had rafted in my part of the world! The manager also invited me back to work a couple of trips if I was interested. It felt great to be among like-minded river folks. The day was quickly slipping by and after exchanging email addresses and phone numbers it was eventually time to begin my journey back to Tokyo. It is much easier to go back to where you came from once you know the route so I nonchalantly began retracing my steps.

Relaxed, slightly sunburned, and a bit dehydrated I fell asleep on the bullet train. Lucky for me I somehow roused myself out of a deep slumber at Tokyo station just in time to dash to the exit. Who knows where I would have ended up! I hopped back on the subway and walked back to our apartment smiling. It had been a great day on the river and my little spirit was refreshed and happy. I can't wait to check out the next river - the Shikoku. Or maybe I should head to the beach for a day of surfing...