Where did all the other surfers go?

I can’t stop thinking about our trip to Kamakura. Or the Japanese style surf session at Shichirigama beach (say that 10 times fast… Shi-chi-ri-ga-ha-ma). It took a subway, a tain, and an antique trolley. But it was worth it! We took the “Romance Car” most of the way which is a nice upgrade from the subway or regular train. Plus they call it the romance car… and when we got off the old trolley I could see and smell the ocean and taste the saltiness on our “short” walk to the hotel.

We missed the hotel sign as we walked past the first time and had to double back. This was not really a bad thing, but the intense heat, humidity, and the long hill at the end made it a bit of an endeavor. But we survived and still had time to have a leisurely surf check, a lovely dinner and a massage before falling asleep and dreaming about a morning paddle out. I love surfing but in the last couple years have been relegated to only the eastern pacific and I was excited to surf the “other side”!

I woke up about 7am and immediately my gaze made its way to the window. One of my favorite things in the world is a surf check from bed. This is like a little bit of heaven for me. The same goes for when you wake up to a blue sky with 3 feet of fresh powder or camping next to a river in the springtime - being outside and playing in nature turns on a passion and desire I love. But back to the beach! The swell was small and consistent and Typhoon Korvahn was on his way. Best of all – the water is warm, which is like Christmas to the adrenalin junkie in my soul.

We paddled out on long boards in board shorts! I bet there were 20 guys and 2 girls in the line up. Each group of people or “pod” of surfers lined the shore in numerous sections wherever you could see wave action. There were hundreds of us all in our own little pods along the coast. The waves were small, slow, and forgiving as I watched the locals make their way into the sweet spot and drop in on friendly but crumbly waves. I was delighted to be in the water. Giddy even.

Oh how happy I was to be surfing Japan! I was gazing at sets on the horizon when I started to hear the droning of loud speakers penetrating only the back of my mind. Shortly thereafter I sensed a movement of surfers and what would quickly become a frenzy of paddling. The party wave with 3-4 people catching a single roller was common but it sounded like everyone was going for the same wave! Confused, I spun around and was now facing the beach. There had just been a mass exodus from the water. EVERYONE was either on shore or approaching dry land. I was still out the back wondering what the holy hell was going on!

Shark I wondered? No, it can’t be- it was a frenzied swim to the beach - in no less than 3 minutes I was completely alone - but I had not sensed fear or danger. I finally put it all together when I made out figures on the beach carrying bright green trash bags. My fellow surfers, including Paul, were all participating in a “beach clean up". Lucky for him he had befriended a daring soul who had attempted to translate what was going on. I was the only person in the water and the Gai-jin girl was sticking out like a sore thumb.

How to get back to the beach with out looking like even more of an ass? I scanned the horizon and looked for an opportunity to redeem myself. There was a 2’ ankle biter rolling my way! I watched it build and started slowly paddling eventually increasing my speed. Ah-ha! I was up! I am sure I grinned when I realized I was on my first wave on the other side of the Pacific Ocean and… I had it all to myself… A little right-hander gradually swept me toward the beach and after a small but glassy ride with a nice little bottom turn at the end I stalled out, hopped off my board in a little pirouette and walked myself to shore.

I quickly found my way to the micro-trash in the high water line debris and commenced beach clean up. I was laughing and having a great time plucking plastic and Styrofoam out of the piles of seaweed, broken shells, and rocks. Reflecting on the behavioral dynamic of this latest experience I began to ponder how the Japanese are really an amazing group of people. How did I end up in the water by myself again? They are incredibly astute at making life better, easier, and more enjoyable so aside from doing what was expected of them as culture contributing in a group effort – I was amazed with the collectivist atmosphere and curious as to how I missed it. I am going with the language barrier defense.

This was also a lesson in politeness. The green bags moved down the beach to the next pod of surfers and we waited. I watched as everyone chatted and stretched while lingering just long enough, so as not to look to eager, until finally someone makes the move into the surf and back into the line up. I wasn't about to go out alone! It seemed like eternity. Finally a guy motioned and encouraged us to follow him into the water. The rest of the morning was fantastic. I caught a few more waves and returned to shore content and happy with my frolic in the ocean. Shichirigahama beach proved itself to be a fun place to play and I am looking forward to going back.